Copenhagen Day 3 aka Malmö

For our 3rd Day in Copenhagen, we'd decided to head over to Malmö in Sweden as it was just over the Øresund Bridge.
The night before we'd asked at the ticket office in the train station and found out that trains ran pretty regular and we could get a double return ticket for 260DKK (approx £30)as long as we travelled together.
The train from Copenhagen H or Central Station was the same train that goes to the airport, it took about 40 minutes to get to Malmö - there wasn't much of a view, it was quite foggy then we went into a tunnel. When we arrived in Malmo, there were no passport checks, we just walked out into the brisk cold air of Sweden! Apparently it's one of the few border crossings where you can get away with showing only a credit card for ID.

We didn't have much of a plan for Malmö, we'd read that Lilla Torg was the square where everyone hangs out drinking coffee, but that must be reserved for the Summer months


We'd also decided to check out the Castle/Museum (Malmöhus), to get there we walked through a Cemetery which seemed to be in the middle of the town, across to a 'Kingspark' to Malmöhus. As we approached we could see the infamous Turning Torso shrouded in fog


The entrance fee was around £5/6 and as we found out included entry into all the museums in the immediate area (7 in total)- which included Malmo Museum & Castle, the Technology & Maritime Museum, a Photography Gallery - Although how you would manage to see everything in one day is beyond me! We spent a good 3 hours plus in the Castle/Museum alone.
When we arrived we were greeted with this sign,


which confused us for about a minute as we hadn't realised there were exhibitions about Apartheid, Nelson Mandela as well as the Scandinavian migration to South Africa.

In addition to these special exhibitions, there were also modern art galleries with prints, paintings etc and the castle itself which documents the history of Malmo and it's tumultuous affair with Denmark, whilst downstairs there is an exhibition of stuffed animals native to Sweden along with actual live nocturnal animals.


For lunch we ate at the Museum Cafe, this was fantastic seeing as Sweden is renowned for being expensive and a McDonald's meal was going to cost around £6 each. The main meals cost approx £7 each, I had breaded plaice with new potatoes and Danish sauce whilst he had something that looked like a giant toad in the whole but with bacon instead of sausages, included in the price was help yourself salad bar/bread, drinks from the dispensers (not bottled/canned) and tea/coffee, complete bargain!

After a hearty but much needed lunch we saw a bit more of the exhibits mentioned above then set off to investigate the other places, including the fisherman's wharf (which seemed to be closed, although to be fair, it was freezing and very quiet), a very non de-script building that had some sort of exhibition about recycling/climate change then upstairs had two contemporary photography exhibitions. The only shame about the photography gallery was that the booklets with the language translations were found at the end of the exhibition rather than at the beginning.
Onwards to the Technology & Maritime Museum, which reminded me of Manchester's Science & Industry Museum, except smaller and warmer feeling. Considering we don't speak Swedish or Danish we did ok at working out what was going on most of the time, as it seems that the further away from the Main Castle we got, the fewer the translations (and unlike London, you weren't being offered those audio guides at every turn either). In fact in some areas there were non at all, leaving you to guess that maybe the Swedes just really like motorbikes, or the wheel in general. The highlight of this museum for me was the submarine, which you could climb inside, I saw climb because you couldn't walk through it, it was tiny! Well I guess it would be bigger if you took out all the controls etc, but then it wouldn't be as much fun.



Along side the sub, there were cars, planes, bikes, motorbikes, scooters and I seem to recall a horse & carriage.
Not to mention a Viking ship.



After this we decided to head back to Denmark and made our slow walk back to the station, via an Irish pub where we had a much needed Tuborg to keep us going.

Iraq - The Space Between

German born photographer Christoph Bangert has spent several months over the last 3 years in Iraq on assignment from the New York Times - during some of the most dangerous times when most other journalists had long gone. The result is some of the most shocking and stunning photographs I've seen, and I don't shock easily.
I was originally drawn to the exhibition after seeing this image, taken in the Karada neighbourhood of Baghdad, during a sandstorm.

But don't be lulled into a false sense of security - Bangert bridges the gap with unexpected striking and beautiful images of a warzone mixed in with what you might expect; images of death, pain and destruction and then everything in between - the civilians caught in the middle who still have to go about their daily business. I was fortunate enough to go to Bangert's talk at the Midland hotel and it was good to see he hadn't been number or come accustomed to the experiences of war.
He also told us the ironic story behind the image below (the cover image from the accompanying book) of an abandoned children's play area

The soldiers built it for the Iraqi people, but because of it's location people are too afraid to use it. This is a truly breathtaking exhibition that really needs to be seen.
The exhibition Iraq - The Space In Between is on at the Artland Gallery in Manchester until 14th March 2009.

London part 2

On our second day in London, we got up slightly hung over and headed into central London, first stop Oxford Street. With the credit crunch and recession looming it was sale central. We stopped off at Debenhams to browse their sale with up to 25% off, we got loads of bargains and did a fair bit of Christmas shopping. After that it was off to Russell Square to check out the Babylon exhibition at the British Museum in the pouring rain, unfortunately it was sold out for the day, so we dried off by browsing the permanent collections and realised that interspersed with the very old was the very new in the form of Statuephila - Contemporary British Sculpture including Damien Hirst's painted skulls, Antony Gormley's Case for an Angel 1 and my favourite Ron Mueck's mask II - which along with the easter island statue fell foul to the "crushing your head" thing



After grabbing a bite to eat in the nearby Museum Street, we headed off towards the Barbican as we had tickets for the snappy titled This Is War! Robert Capa at Work, Gerda Taro On the Subject of War. it was a very interesting photographic exhibition, concentrating a lot on Capa & Toro's coverage of the Spanish Civil War, but also down stairs included photos and video pieces based on more recent wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. I thought maybe the upstairs section (Capa & Toro) could've been better laid out, it wasn't clear where the exhibition started and finished, and there were several shots that were displayed twice for reasons unknown. But if you're in London, definitely worth a visit. We also managed to visit the Curve Gallery on the ground floor of the Barbican which was hosting Rafael Lozano-Hemmer: Frequency & Volume which is a large scale installation piece contains radios (that seem to double as projectors)that you walk past, depending on the size and strength of your shadow on the wall, the projectors tune to various radio frequencies, displayed on the walls. It's quite surreal listening to a mish mash of local, pirate and national radio stations mixed in with emergency services radio frequencies etc... a lot of fun to be had though - great for kids.

It was getting on for after 6pm at this point, so we took the tube a couple of stops to Brick Lane, in my old neighbourhood of Whitechapel to meet with Julia and Carly who I hadn't seen for well over 2 years! We had a couple of drinks in the Archers pub and then went for a curry. Sorry can't remember the name of the curry house, but as usual the standard was high whilst being less that £10 a head including drinks.

Monday was our day home but we still had the morning to kill, so we checked out the Annie Leibovitz: A Photographer's Life, 1990–2005 exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery, just off Trafalgar Square. I was really looking forward to this and it didn't disappoint as one of my favourite Leibovitch photos of the White Stripes was on display

it also contained a variety of "famous" images and faces along side personal photos of the late Susan Sontag. Again, this is definitely worth checking out if you have £12 to spare.

After this there was not much time to do anything except grab a quick bite to eat anc head back to St Pancras for what turned out to be a rather uneventful train journey home.

Photographic Portrait Prize 2007 - The Lowry

I went to the Lowry Centre today to catch the Photographic Portrait exhibition, which closes this weekend. And whilst I found it quite enjoyable I do have mixed feelings over whether I enjoyed the exhibition or not, maybe it was my own fault for expecting something slightly grittier than what I saw, my preconceptions being led in particular by this photograph

Portrait Prize winner Joseline Ingabire with her daughter Leah Batamuliza, Rwanda, from the series Intended Consequences: Mothers of Genocide, Children of Rape, by Jonathan Torgovnik © the artist.
I suppose I was expecting portraits that told a story about the subject, but I found many were simply portraits of children who were in some way related to the photographer, that appeared to have been used for the photo as they were readily available.. or again, maybe I read too much/too little from the snippet of information on the descriptions.
The photos I did find very striking included Alex Hurricane Higgins by Michael Donald (albeit displayed in a rather odd position in the gallery) and Alice & Fish By David Stewart. A small sample of the finalists can be found on the National Portrait Gallery website.